Now, be warned, the Arirang Korean Restaurant on Deans Bridge Road in Augusta is an establishment with an exterior that doesn’t exactly scream "atmosphere." In fact, it doesn't even whisper it. Somewhat surprising for a restaurant with a name that means "beautiful dear" in Korean. Beneath the curiously shaped siding front and the graffiti on the rear of the building (does that really say ZESTFULLY CLEAN?) you'll find a diner, a shiny metallic capsule that makes you feel you should be ordering eggs over easy with corn beef hash instead of nak ji bokum or jab chae bab. If you can overlook the sketchy location (and the fact that the owner holds court at the front table with a rifle by his side), you'll enjoy this place - as of this writing, my favorite local dive.

The first time I visited, I was overwhelmed by the menu options, everything from bi bim bop to thuk mandukuk. Arirang serves standard dishes known to people with even a nodding acquaintance of Korean food - yakki man du (fried dumplings with minced pork) and bul go gi (thin strips of fiery beef), for example. But Arirang also serves more unusual items involving chopped roast octopus and squid. And, your meal is served with eight amazing sides dishes. Small tastes of pickled, marinated, and fermented things like sesame broccoli, cabbage and sausage, kim chee, cucumbers, sprouts, hijiki, and slices of a vibrantly yellow vegetable that I am unable to identify but devour nonetheless. I know that’s only seven. Forgive me - I’m overstimulated just thinking about it and can’t recall the eighth wonder of Arirang’s world of chop (that’s the Korean term for side dish).

On Father's Day, Marian and I took my dad to Arirang for lunch. He did two tours of duty in Korea so we thought it would be fun to revisit the culinary landscape of his past. It was. And, our meal was fabulous. I go to sleep every night dreaming of the bi bim bop.