Dispatch from San Francisco
"What this town needs is a good Jewish deli ... " That's the sentiment that led to the establishment of David's more than 50 years ago in San Francisco. At least that's what my to-go bag tells me. I stopped in today for a late lunch after my Chinatown crawl - brisket on Siberian soldier's bread with a side of potato salad. I certainly wasn't looking for brisket. But something about all those old white haired men lining the deli counter got to me. The food was fine. Nothing to complain about - nothing to write home about. But the bag they gave me when I left? Well, that's the story. Here's a sample of some of the wisdom that walks out the door with each leftover ... "A good Jewish deli telescopes time (thru a thin haze of schmaltz) back to a youth-ago innocence, back to 2 Jews 3 opinions 4 political parties 5 pledges 6 testimonial dinners, and the promises of career and amour. Time present (while you think), morning noon and evening meanwhiles, what we are about is we outfit you for posh noshing." I found this so curious that I've carefully cleaned and folded the bag and intend to enter it in my big scrapbook of culinary oddities. Want a philosophical sack of your very own? Visit David's at 474 Geary, at Taylor, on Theater Row. That's on the bag, too.
deb
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